Since I've affirmed, time and time again, that San Antonio is a community who likes to party, you should not be surprised, dear reader, that we also get into the festivities of Advent and Christmas. Especially when one considers that the dominant faith in this city is Catholicism and the majority ethnic group is chicano or Mexican-American, and another prominent ethnic group is der Deutsche or Germans.
Here are some of the significant and distinctive, unique traditions of the end of the year, here in S.A.:
The lights. San Antonio is famous for El Paseo del Río or Riverwalk, and the way it's decorated from Thanksgiving thru end of year. At first, seeing the lights of the Riverwalk trees only from street level, I didn't think much of them. However, once I actually went down onto the Riverwalk, walked under the trees and got a fresh perspective, I became more enthusiastic. Especially when at times the riverside sidewalk's edge is lined with luminarias, paper bags weighted down with sand and each containing a burning votive candle. (This custom came out of Mexico.) Also well-publicized is the lighting of the University of the Incarnate Word. On that campus all the trees are strung with colored lights, and some of the buildings' rooflines have white lights. Beautiful! And folk talk about going out to the northeast suburban city of Windcrest to view home Christmas decorations. I did see Windcrest several Christmases ago, but I fear that nowadays it's probably overdone. I prefer to ride the bus(es) thru the Westside and the neighborhood west-northwest of St. Mary's University, and see those decorations, especially front-lawn Nativity scenes.
Other light-style decorations here include the ring of lights atop the observation deck of the Tower of the Americas, and the flood-lit upper levels of the classic Tower Life Building. Both of these shine in the traditional Christmas colors of red, white and green.
Champurrado and tamales. Tamales are an ancient tradition de los mexicanos y chicanos para la Navidad. I've known about these corn-husk-wrapped food delicacies for years -- and hadn't liked them. But upon my arrival in San Antonio and my voicing my dislike to Hispanic friends, it was suggested that I really ought to try chicken tamales. And yes, chicken tamales ARE deliciosos! But a couple of Advents ago I got introduced to something even more delightful: champurrado. This is a Mexican hot chocolate drink, which includes spices (of course) and a little corn meal, which gives some sips of it a gritty texture. I can see why some of my chicano friends say you have to develop a taste for champurrado, but well, I developed the taste at first sipping! Alas! the drink is very hard to find, since apparently it is a homemade item.
Nacimientos. These are Nativity scenes (or creches) set up inside Mexican-American homes. They are more elaborate than the typical creche in an Anglo-American household. Of course, one has to be invited into the home to see un nacimiento, so it's good to have lots of chicano friends! The fact that el nacimiento is so prominent in the home serves as visual evidence that for Hispanics the birth of Jesus remains "THE REASON for the Season". Even tho' I firmly believe that Jesus was born at some other time of the year (most likely October or April) -- those Bethlehem shepherds would have had their flock in barns and NOT in the fields during a Palestinian December -- I do like to celebrate Christmas on 25 December. And I will remind anyone and everyone that the first syllable of "Christmas" is CHRIST!
La Gran Posada. This is my FAVORITE Christmas tradition of all traditions. Note that I say "Christmas" and not just "Navidad", so herein I'm affirming that THIS is my FAVORITE tradition regardless of cultural origin. I've participated in la Gran Posada three years in a row, and delighted in it every time! The crowd of several hundred gathers at dusk in Milam Park. This park, on the north side of el Mercado (the Mexican Market), was the first cemetery of San Antonio. Thus we are in a place of darkness and death. A young woman and man are chosen to represent Mary and Joseph, and the "Mary" rides on the back of a donkey built on a cart, while "Joseph" stands beside her. They make their way thru the streets of downtown San Antonio, like Mary and Joseph seeking lodging (posada) in old Bethlehem. The crowd walks with them, singing villancicos (Spanish carols). Some of these villancicos are just the Spanish versions of carols English-speaking Americans sing all the time. Others are unique to the Iberian-American cultural celebration of Navidad. My favorite is "Campana Sobre Campana" or Carol of the Bells (of Bethlehem). At various points the traveling group will be met by a small group at the door of a prominent landmark building (e.g., the Spanish Governors Palace or the Bexar County Courthouse). The "Posada" carol is sung: the travelers (afuera or outside) sing the verses of Joseph, requesting posada (lodging), and the group at the door (adentro or inside) singing the refusal of the innkeeper. Finally, we arrive at San Fernando Cathedral. There the entire "Posada" carol is sung; it ends with the adentro people (the supposed innkeeper) finally welcoming Mary and Joseph to come inside. Lights suddenly blaze out all over the Cathedral and Main Plaza -- because we have arrived at the place of light and life and faith! We sing a few more villancicos in both English and Spanish, and then there are piñatas for the kids and tamales and champurrado for everyone!
So, dear reader, I wish you: ¡Feliz Navidad y un próspero Año Nuevo! "Happy Christmas and a prosperous New Year!"
Saturday, December 23, 2006
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Herein I want to add details about one item in the main blog. I wrote of the lights along the Riverwalk. A particularly great spot to view the holiday lights is between the southern bridges of NAvarro and St. Marys streets. These two north-south one-way streets cross the great bend of the San Antonio River (and hence the original stretch of the Riverwalk) twice -- hence the reference to the southern bridges.
Between the Riverwalk and Villita sTreet west of Navarro, and next to the historic Tower Life Building is another building, about ten stories tall. On its roof edge is a yellow-lighted outline of a star, with strings of green lights hanging down to the Riverwalk, to suggest a Chrsitmas tree. On one side is "Happy Holidays" in red lights and on the other is "Seasons Greetings".
This looks best when seen from the north end of the Navarro street bridge. That way, you get the effect of the Riverwalk trees' multi-color lights below and in front, and the red-white-green floodlit upper portions of the Tower Life above and behind. Looking to the left down Navarro, one also can see the Mexican Consulate, shining with red-white-green. These are not only the traditional colors of Christmas, but also the national colors of our southern neighbor!
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